I like to experiment too...

I heard that Green Crack was a fast hybrid but I don't know the percentages. There's no such thing as a popular clone only strain; you can take a female plant and force her to pollinate herself through chemistry. There are several seedbanks that sell SSH seeds but I couldn't vouch for any of them so do your homework before ordering.

Lollipopping is one of those debatable practices. Some people do it; some don't. I'm not a fan of the idea because a dead or dying leaf/branch doesn't waste as much "energy" as some people would think. It can help with under canopy airflow some so some people have a oscillating fan blowing under the canopy and another above. That could be another experiment after you test your light idea; one room lollipopped; one not. We'll turn you into a mad scientist...

My CO2 bottle just emptied... so ill have needed like 1.5 tank, for a total of about 30$ in CO2 cost for the entire grow.

Can I dim HPS to any levels I want? ie. could I lower power on a 1000w to 700w on the light paired with a SS400W?

What about the 2nd SS400W? What would you do with it?

It depends on the ballast I believe. Some have a set percentage switch some might be able to be more fine tuned...

You could use the other for the mother(s) or save it in case the HID+LED test works out for you. *shrug*

Solis Tek ballasts apparently allow for whatever you want, so I COULD have 700w on the hid with the ss400w next to it.

Penetration will matter less with a scrog, and the lightmover will handle the footprint issues.

Yay!

Three 3x6 it will be then. Each along side a wall, and I'll have room for the cloning, curing and mother tent in corners.

I've decided to go with vertical reflectors because after researching light engineering, I've come to realize literally 99% reflectors used in commercial applications use vertical reflectors, including those used to light our streets. After reading a few reviews (GrowersHouse took precise measurements and compared vertical to horizontal) and the vertical reflectors have a smaller footprint, but deliver more umoles of PAR right under them, which is great in an application like mine where light movers basically ensure the light is distributed evenly at maximum power (FIRE THE DEATHSTARRRR!)

Plus, I like to try new things that stray away from the conventional.

Im trying to design the room so that all enclosures have their res linked to a single, big RO reservoir that tops off res automatically using a simple float valve in each. Using dehumidifier with built-in pumps, I could have them empty directly into the RO reservoir, which could eliminate all maintenance and ensure constant water levels. I could then simply add nutes when the time asks for it. Draining would only be necessary in case of a problem.

OMG there's a whitish substance forming on my leaves! Do I have mold???? It can't be trichs yet, i'm not even halfway through flower! Ed R's book says trichs only appear in the end.

Im taking pictures

This on a sugar leaf



Please tell me it's normal!

Looks like trichomes to me...

Wooooooooooooooooooooooow! So early! Does that mean I can expect flower NOT to take 90 days?

Serious Seed say 70-90, it'd be nice to be in the lower end of that estimate.

The only way to gauge maturity is to examine the trichomes for cloudy/amber color under magnification. If they mature in 70-90 days start looking at 65 days.

Ok now I'm so excited I may get an intellectual erection.

I'm taking out the macro equipment to take better pictures from now on.

This day coincides with my first well formed stool in over 381 days, apparently the third treatment is working.

WHAT A DAY! WELL FORMED POOP AND TRICHS ALL IN 24h!

Perhaps there is a God.