• Register
  • Login
  • Board index ‹ Manufacturer Forums ‹ California Lightworks
  • View unanswered posts
  • View active topics

[GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Forum ONLY for California Lightworks Grower Feedback Program
Post a reply
548 posts • Page 44 of 55 • 1 ... 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47 ... 55

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Sat Apr 20, 2013 3:02 pm

It's gradual but flowers put on the most weight during the last 2-4 weeks depending on the strain, etc.

Flowers can be dried, in the dark, at a low humidity, hanging or on a drying rack. I don't suggest letting them dry in a "pile" though. Airflow is important. ;)

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
SisterMaryElephant
 
Posts: 2633
Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:05 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby FCGFrank » Sat Apr 20, 2013 3:19 pm

SisterMaryElephant wrote:It's gradual but flowers put on the most weight during the last 2-4 weeks depending on the strain, etc.

Flowers can be dried, in the dark, at a low humidity, hanging or on a drying rack. I don't suggest letting them dry in a "pile" though. Airflow is important. ;)


My brother said it was vital the buds are head down so the sugar leaves hang downwards, so they can dry in the proper direction. Since he is family I did not want to call him an idiot to his face because this made no sense at all to me.

My rack has 4 levels, there should be enough room to spread it all evenly without one bud sitting on top of another.

I've been reading more on curing and drying, lots of conflicting levels out there.

Many people say the curing process stops below 50% rH, but then many suggest drying at 35% rH. Ed R's books makes no mention of ANY rH level, neither for drying or curing. :|
FCGFrank
 
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:02 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Sat Apr 20, 2013 3:31 pm

I wouldn't say that he's an idiot (he could be) but he's wrong. Some people trim while they harvest, then dry; some people dry then do a final trim. There is no "proper direction" or method for drying, the reason many people hang them upside down is that when the branches are cut they usually have a "hook" from part of another side branch and hanging them by the tip of a flower (right side up) would crush the tip of the flower. Drying them on their sides *can* deform them a bit and impede airflow but modern drying racks are made from mesh that breathes well. Like growing and curing there is no one "right way" to dry either.

I cure at 100% humidity...when I water cure. Most people air-cure, in glass jars, in a refrigerator exchanging gasses daily. ;)

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
SisterMaryElephant
 
Posts: 2633
Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:05 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby FCGFrank » Sat Apr 20, 2013 5:09 pm

This is the curing method I was intending on following. What do you think?

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

Some well-worded and executed How-to using this technique from later in the thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrnMtnGrwr
Here's how I did it, doing my first dry/cure after reading this thread.

I cut the plants, and trimmed them. All of the drying was done in 45-55% RH and 70-75f. I hung them up in the cabinet I grew them in, lights off, with the ventilation still going. I had some inner air circulation fans during the grow but I turned them off for the dry. They were hanging up for 3-4 days and the outsides of the buds were feeling dried out, but the stems weren't quite snapping yet.

This is when I stripped the buds off the main stem and put them into jars. The humidity eventually rose to 65-72% so I took the tops off and let them sit. They quickly lowered to the ambient RH, around 55% () I then put the lids back on, and I've been doing this for a couple days now, and they're slowly stabilizing, and I'm extremely confident this will be a great cure. Once they're stable I'll be uploading a screenshot of a spreadsheet I've been tracking the humidity in the jars with, hopefully someone will find it useful/informative.


Another example from Chits:

Quote:
Originally Posted by chits
Just finished reading all the way through. Took a couple weeks. Presently trying this method and results good very good (so far).

Thank you Simon and so many others that made some really good suggestions to go along with it.

Maybe this will help someone, so I'll add my $0.02

Started drying about a week ago. Finally had it down to 68% (not stabil though) in the jars, but was not comfortable with it at that point. Looking for around 62%.
Presently we are into a week+ of damp / rainy weather. Ambient air is high 80 to mid-upper 90% RH. a little high for here, but not unusual.
How to get the jar below ambient was a issue for me. So I came up with a test.
1 gal. glass jar
1 lb. white rice
1 qt. jar of bud
2 paper lunch bags.

In the oven at 250 degrees for 45 min. to a hour with the paper lunch bags and rice. Idea is to dry it out as completely as possible.

Once out of the oven, Place bags and rice in gal. jar (loosely capped) to cool.

Okay, now fairly quickly remove contents from jar. Open 1 bag and add rice. Stand it up in the gal. jar. In other bag pour in the buds and install into bag of rice. Slip a hygrometer between outside bag & glass so you can see it's reading, and seal it all up. May take a bit of persistance to get it right where you want it. But go slow.
While aiming for 62%, when the hygrometer rises to 60% I'll put the bud back into it's cure jar and let stabilize. Repeat if needed. The meter will start out really low (being dry) and will rise as it draws moisture out of the bud. Suggest you try and stay right on top of it because it seems to work faster than I expected.
Starting with 72%, made this routine 2Xs and I'm almost perfectly stable at 63%. I may go 1 more time,, but I'll let it sit a day or so before determining that.
This was a spur of the moment idea. Seemed to work for a smaller grow anyways and I'm sure something could be changed or modified to be even better (easier/faster?). This was really flying-by-the-seat-of-the-pants as they say. (ie; not very scientific)
Anyways, living in the mold capital of the universe, I had to do something and relatively quickly. Seems to be working fine.

Hope it helps someone else.


HTH,
Simon
FCGFrank
 
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:02 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Sat Apr 20, 2013 5:32 pm

Sounds like overkill (and some bad info) to me but if that's what you feel comfortable with then have at it but I wouldn't air-cure for less than 30 days if you want a proper cure. I don't "smoke test" uncured flowers either so maybe I'm picky...or just patient. I water cure in 7, some go less.

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
SisterMaryElephant
 
Posts: 2633
Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:05 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby FCGFrank » Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:21 pm

SisterMaryElephant wrote:Sounds like overkill (and some bad info) to me but if that's what you feel comfortable with then have at it but I wouldn't air-cure for less than 30 days if you want a proper cure. I don't "smoke test" uncured flowers either so maybe I'm picky...or just patient. I water cure in 7, some go less.


How does the water cure process go?

Whatever is simplest.
FCGFrank
 
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:02 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:55 pm

Water curing is pretty simple but there are still pros and cons...

One reason people don't water cure more is that it affects bag-appeal and it can change taste. It could be harder to sell water cured crops because it looks different but that's how I do my personal meds. I like the earthy taste, it's very smooth and increases potency, imho.

There are variations on "how" but I half-dry it first, then it gets submerged in clean water for about 7 days, gently changing out the water AT LEAST every day, more often is better, especially in the early stage. I like the water to be cool too but that's not always easy without a stream, lake or river handy, if you use municipal water and pay for it by the gallon then drain to waste can get expensive and it's not really needed. If the water does get warm, in the summer, I just change it more often. After the cure is done, let it completely dry out again and package it up for storage or whatever. I use tap water for the start and switch to distilled or RO water for the last day or so. If you're not sure about it being dry enough then use the slow-cure jar method for a few days more or for long term storage.


YMMV...

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
SisterMaryElephant
 
Posts: 2633
Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:05 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby FCGFrank » Sun Apr 21, 2013 9:31 am

Water's free here, and with my RO filter, I can make a few gallons of RO water in a few hours which comes out at like 50F from the tap. So it would be logistically easy for me because of where I live, but I am concerned about the bag appeal (for the future).

Yesterday I was reading Ed R's book again (passages) and found this:

Image

I was sure curing came after drying.

It's very soothing to be constantly reminded you're a nub even after all that reading :D
FCGFrank
 
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:02 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Sun Apr 21, 2013 11:06 am

As I've often said; Ed is an icon but I'd have to partially disagree with him in this case. It might only be semantics though. First off drying and curing should be in the dark, not in a dimly lit room, because light and heat degrades THC. Dimly lit is better than a lot of light though. Curing does happen before final drying in the case of water curing; no doubt about it. Drying happens before (and during to some extent) a slow cure (air-curing in glass jars) but I guess it's fair to say that the jars allow an even humidity that extends the process described in his book. However, most people slow cure in a refrigerator which is well below the temps Ed describes and it clearly works because that's how many growers have done it for decades. If "curing" stopped after a few days then the smoke wouldn't get smoother when people cure longer...but it does.

It might depend on what people consider "dry" too. I've never gave it too much attention because I've done it the same way for so long and I only added a dehumidifier to the process in the last decade which did speed up the drying part. You *never* want to have your product so dry that it crumbles and turns to powder. When talking about drying after harvest; we generally mean dried to a state that stems snap, not bend. That might be in the 50-60% range since that's about where we keep our humidors for cigars. ;)

Perhaps I do "dry" a bit more than others because I rarely have sweat in the jars (which would imply a relatively high humidity) but gasses are exchanged more often at the start of a slow cure too. I've never put a hygrometer in my cure jars so I can't be sure, perhaps drying/curing in a large humidor would be a good environment, but I've never tried it that way. Something else to experiment with. ;)

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
SisterMaryElephant
 
Posts: 2633
Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:05 pm

Re: [GFP] Double SS400W Grow Journal

Postby FCGFrank » Sun Apr 21, 2013 12:07 pm

SisterMaryElephant wrote: I've never put a hygrometer in my cure jars so I can't be sure, perhaps drying/curing in a large humidor would be a good environment, but I've never tried it that way. Something else to experiment with. ;)


That was going to be my next question... why don't I just transform my current 2x4 in a humidor? With the icebox acting as an AC, the dehumidifier and a humidifier, I could maintain constant humidity an temperature in the dark. Add a small fan for some airflow and voilà, you got yourself a homemade humidor.

I could keep rH to like 30% with the dehumidifier to speed up drying until the stem snaps, then I increase rH back to 55% and temperatures at like 70-75F. They never even have to leave their drying rack.

Wouldn't it work?
FCGFrank
 
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2013 10:02 pm

PreviousNext
Post a reply
548 posts • Page 44 of 55 • 1 ... 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47 ... 55

Return to California Lightworks

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


ABOUT LED GROW LIGHT FORUM


LED Grow Light forum is an independent forum for indoor horticulture enthusiasts using LED technology to collaborate, share tips and tricks and post their own grow light reviews and journals. Since LED technology for indoor growing is relatively new, this forum is designed to provide a candid communication realm outside the marketing and sales hype disseminated by LED grow light companies. Whether you are new to LED grow lights or a seasoned guru, you will find very useful information in the posts within this forum. Everyone is welcome to join and participate in the discussions.

LED Grow Light Forum



  • FAQ
  • The team
  • Delete all board cookies