Week 3 Update
Starting to see a definite improvement with the RO water. Did the usual res change today.
Actually for the last 2 changes, I have been backing the base nutes down to half strength, and running a little higher doses on my additives. Final EC being 1.2, and PH is 5.8. Just something I read,,,,Thought I would give it a try.
I also did make shift covers for the posts, out of mylar. Looks horrible but will work for now. Then I put the probe for the thermometer inside the top post....Not happy! Even with the mylar they are 79 degrees. Dont know if adding a chiller will even help.

Well on with the pics.

Next 2 are lower left, and 2nd row left. Very Sat dom. I have had to supercrop both main colas. Other branches are around 3'. (Pics dont do them justice)

And the rest of the Girls! h

Next the bud pics! Lol! And 1 of the aforementioned Supercropped tops. Looks like I'll have to tie it up now. h

Theyre really budding up nicely for 3 weeks. I would say a lot better than the Blackstars.

Lastly We have are 2 moms, and they are cruzin right along under the BS veg lights.

1st up is the White Russian.



And last we have TGA's Ace of Spades. Peace everybody! h

"Originally Posted by Forest
Nice pics bro

Im thinking once you have insulated the posts or even a heat shield from top to bottom and once the chiller is in the cold water every 4 min and the heat shield or just insulation is on ( mylar as you know wont really reflect much heat will it ?) it might be fine."


Thanks Bud.
I really wanted to insulate them, but it was a pain in the ass just doing what I did, with the plants in there. Doing a full shield is out of the question, because it will block my airflow. I do hope the chiller will improve it, and at least buffer the heat for another 8 weeks. It seems funny that I havent heard of anyone else having these problems with aero gardens. I guarantee a 600 or 1000 puts out more heat than my SolarStorm.
I have made the decision to move the feed lines inside the posts. Then I will wrap the remaining pipes after final assembly. Not gonna worry about the drain/frame pipes, as they never have water in then long enough to heat up.
Now you have me thinking! Lol. While I have it all apart I may just give the whole thing a couple coats of "Lizard Skin". Its used for heat and sound deadening on Hotrods. Its made out of ceramic particles, so it has killer insulation properties. http://www.lizardskin.com/car-ceramic-insulation.html It can handle the heat of engines, plus extreme dragstrip temps (140degrees). Then I will glue some diamond mylar over the posts. After this revamping Im gonna have to draw the line, on this system. h

Light = heat. Black absorbs it, white reflects it; water and air removes it.

A larger remote reservoir, if possible, (or a larger chiller) will handle the heat load better.

For light proofing plastic things I use "Plasti Dip" spray paint in black and white. If the plastic is already lightproof (black plastics usually) then I hit it with a couple of coats of white to reflect light. If the plastic is translucent (most white plastics and others too) then I hit it with a few coats of black plastidip then cover that with enough white to cover the black.

For plastic sheeting they make black/white poly film that's lightproof on one side and reflective on the other and it's cheaper than mylar. Not quite as reflective but a LOT cheaper. The newest sheeting on the market that's popular is Orca grow film. Similar to poly but more diffusion, easier to maintain and apply, less "hot spots" but not real cheap either. I know a lot of growers that just use flat white house paint for their walls instead of films.

Since you have plants growing, I'd wait to paint the thing until after harvest; you already covered it with mylar and mylar should keep the light out of the tubes. If the canopy fills in more you'll have more shade too...

Like I said before. I just think its funny nobody else is complaining about the issue. My posts really arent even white, (its just a cover) the actual material is kinda tan, and is so thick, light cant penetrate it. I checked out the Orca, thats pretty cool, and its the same price as the diamond mylar I use. Peace. h

It's hard to tell from pictures sometimes but if you say the whole thing, including PVC pipes, the square post covers, hoses and the reservoir are light proof or covered in reflective material then you shouldn't have a lot of algae regardless of temps. If you have that part covered then we're back to other ways for reducing nutrient temps. I'd start with a larger, remote res. Your little chiller will help a little (maybe not enough) when you get it hooked up. You can always add frozen gallon water bottles to the res to help the chiller.

I'm going to convert one or more 10k+ btu window AC units into an outdoor chiller. I could put together an automotive based AC system, run it off a 110v motor and belt, and covert the evap into a chiller too. I'm not sure which would work better or cost less.

EDIT:
Oh... What is the temp difference between each level of your stadium and what is the temp inside the res?