Introduction:
Let's talk about... is an easy informal discussion format. Somebody starts a thread with the LTA subject line and the subject they want to learn about or share information on. Feel free to start one too!
Yield is quite complicated like "Hydroponics" so we can branch it off, as needed. I hope that we can all agree on a standard so that we make grow reports we can say "hey joe's grow did better than mine, maybe I should try his XYZ method."
So LTA yield.
Every one of us would prefer a yield with higher numbers to lower (given the choice) but there are so many ways of reporting yield and so may variables that it's hard to agree on an accurate way to judge one grow to another.
LTA different ways to measure yield and discuss what the pros vs cons are; I'll start with a few. We'll talk about increasing yield later...

Total weight:
Well, more is better in most cases but just because "joe" has enough resources to plant 10x times the space but it doesn't mean his method couldn't improve his yield.
Total weight (dry)/ per plant:
Giant trees are great (trust me

Grams/per watt:
This is often used in the HID community but best suited for comparing equal (very similar) grows. Ranges of .5g/w for the newer growers is pretty good and 1+g/w is a decent goal for experienced and well tuned systems. The down side is all of the variables in veg/flower times, genetics, environment make it hard to calculate a figure that can compare all grows. I think implies that all available area is properly covered by a given light.
Grams/per Sq Foot (or meter):
I see seed company's use this to describe yield sometimes. There are ways to maximize in this measurement, double or triple stacked SOG in a high roof grow room would help you here but hurt you in the g/plant and g/$ methods.
Dollars/per gram (or g/$):
Take how much you spend on everything and divide it by yearly yield in grams. Outdoors wins this with no need for lights, however, some indoor methods are clearly more expensive than others.
I've used g/w for a while but it's only really good for comparing my next grow to my last one, if you get my drift. I think that a newer method that takes more factors into consideration might be better.
What do you all think?