dwcled wrote:As to why I got the LED, I am convinced they work, and after talking to the owner I am convinced he wants a quality product.

I can offer suggestions right off the bat.

Make it lighter, and I don't care if the power supply ends up being like a remote ballast.

Duct it so it replaces existing hoods as it does need the cooling.

I'd say they're one of the best LED lights on the market and I don't get paid by them nor do I even own one. They absolutely do work, the question is whether or not they are cost-effective and based on results that I've seen so far, I'd say...not yet. One of our growers already hit the 1g/w mark and is hoping to beat that next time.

I agree, a remote power supply would make it lighter to hang btu it would alos add cost requiring more cable and copper is expensive right now.

I agree again, the ability to use ducting to provide intake/exhaust, either built in to the hood or as an optional accessory is absolutely needed.

Powerwiz wrote:

SisterMaryElephant wrote:Yes, common sense for those of us that understand electrical circuits but it's not really 800w, there are 160 5w diodes but they're not all on at the same time (depending on what settings are selected) and the LED drivers are probably under-driven so they last longer. Right, a single (or even a few) diode(s) don't generate much heat but when you're shoving several hundred watts in a light, it has to deal with it. CLW's mistake, cooling wise, was not taking into consideration people that want to supplement co2, which isn't a small number of growers, and venting out of the sides instead of the top, imho.

I am fully aware of it not being 800w. 690w on my Killawatt with everything on, 450-460 in Grow mode.

To exhaust out of the top you would have to isolate the intake or you would recirculate hot air achieving you not a whole lot. Eventually you would hit the thermal cut off point and the circuits would turn off. If you reversed the fans though that would work put a flange or angle the heat sinks down some suck in air from below and out the top.

Oh well dont really care as I dont have a heat problem. So the so sad to bad kicks in on that one

I know you are aware but other people reading the forums may not be so I like to be accurate. I don't blame CLW for calling it an 800w light, since it's full cycle and has optional uvb they can't call it a 625w LED light because that wouldn't be accurate either. Lights that only have one setting should be rated by draw though.

Well, if they reversed fan direction (or made it easy to remove/replace the fans) and had a single 4-6" flange on top, it would still be better than the way they do it now because, then, while you may not be able to save the co2; you could still vent the heat directly out of the tent/grow area. The *best* solution would be flanged intake/exhaust ports and a relatively sealed unit, as I said, either built in or as an optional accessory.

SisterMaryElephant wrote:

Powerwiz wrote:

SisterMaryElephant wrote:
Not everyone does that kind of research and the documentation on their website doesn't mention how much heat these put out. One of the common myths about LED is that they run cool.

YMMV...

Well 800w 5 amps common sense it will generate heat..but alot do not realize that especially those conned by other LED makers who sell LEDs that draw hardly any wattage..of course they run cool.

Yes, common sense for those of us that understand electrical circuits but it's not really 800w, there are 160 5w diodes but they're not all on at the same time (depending on what settings are selected) and the LED drivers are probably under-driven so they last longer. Right, a single (or even a few) diode(s) don't generate much heat but when you're shoving several hundred watts in a light, it has to deal with it. CLW's mistake, cooling wise, was not taking into consideration people that want to supplement co2, which isn't a small number of growers, and venting out of the sides instead of the top, imho.

If the unit is gonna be used as an upgrade to existing systems, then the hood attachments should be used IMO as there is heat to vent.

In my case, the chamber was vented for stink and lamp heat separately and the stink venting can't keep up with the heat now.

So I uncapped the 6" vent which I have a Vortex fan connected to in the attic.

The problem with that arrangement is it empties the chamber of Co2 and still doesn't take down the temperature to where I want.

So, I figured out a collector that will fit over the intake fans and connect to the fresh air external,and a manifold to connect the heat outputs on each side and connect that to the Vortex input.

Sounds like we need to take what gamers do with there computers and water cool the whole thing! Water cooling can dramatically cool down a PC. Cept Im not messing with a 1k light lol well 2k to replace it.

Powerwiz wrote:Sounds like we need to take what gamers do with there computers and water cool the whole thing! Water cooling can dramatically cool down a PC. Cept Im not messing with a 1k light lol well 2k to replace it.

They (CLW) could offer a water cooled option too, that should leave very little heat to remove, making co2 easier to work with. It would need large heat sinks and a large remote radiator because I think the computer CPUs would run cooler than the LED drivers but that would be an interesting option. I fully understand the hesitation regarding voiding the warranty on such an expensive piece of equipment.

SisterMaryElephant wrote:

Powerwiz wrote:Sounds like we need to take what gamers do with there computers and water cool the whole thing! Water cooling can dramatically cool down a PC. Cept Im not messing with a 1k light lol well 2k to replace it.

They (CLW) could offer a water cooled option too, that should leave very little heat to remove, making co2 easier to work with. It would need large heat sinks and a large remote radiator because I think the computer CPUs would run cooler than the LED drivers but that would be an interesting option. I fully understand the hesitation regarding voiding the warranty on such an expensive piece of equipment.

Core i7 processor stock runs about 160 degrees. There are 995 million transistors in a Core i7. Overclockers say 200 degrees is about the max you can take it before some bad stuff happens.

Theres a interesting video on youtube of a intel processor without a heat sink. turns on then catches on fire. Its thermal cut off was turned off.

Powerwiz wrote:

SisterMaryElephant wrote:

Powerwiz wrote:Sounds like we need to take what gamers do with there computers and water cool the whole thing! Water cooling can dramatically cool down a PC. Cept Im not messing with a 1k light lol well 2k to replace it.

They (CLW) could offer a water cooled option too, that should leave very little heat to remove, making co2 easier to work with. It would need large heat sinks and a large remote radiator because I think the computer CPUs would run cooler than the LED drivers but that would be an interesting option. I fully understand the hesitation regarding voiding the warranty on such an expensive piece of equipment.

Core i7 processor stock runs about 160 degrees. There are 995 million transistors in a Core i7. Overclockers say 200 degrees is about the max you can take it before some bad stuff happens.

Theres a interesting video on youtube of a intel processor without a heat sink. turns on then catches on fire. Its thermal cut off was turned off.

Yeah, older AMD cpus used to catch on fire if the fans failed, we, in the IT field, called them "space heaters" they ran so hot but I still don't know how hot all of the LED drivers run in the CLW lights either and there are several inside. It's still an interesting option, are there *any* water cooled high power LED lights out there?

I doubt it but could be done. Been reading up at work that Server Farms are now probably going to be migrating to "Oil Cooled" server racks. Intel is investing in it heavily as its superior to water cooling and the whole dam thing can be submerged. Its pretty cool tech. Dramatically less cooling required and the oil lasts over 10 years doing that.

They are liquid cooling the die.

http://news.cnet.com/8301-11386_3-57428 ... or-summer/

I think it could be done but it would require custom CNC work for every model that a manufacturer would want to water cool and then they'd need connectors and long hoses to get the coolant from the light to the radiator and a pump capable of moving it that far/high. It wouldn't be cheap. It's probably more cost efficient to just add air flanges since flex ducting is so cheap. I don't water cool or overclock PCs either...

You can't oil cool hard drives because the oil would slow down the platters and hard drives aren't airtight. They could oil cool SSD drives though...