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Straph's GFP Journal

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Straph's GFP Journal

Postby Straph » Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:12 pm

Just got in my new CLW Solar Storm 400w. First lets do a simple review of the product. I'll try to update weekly if not more. This is my first grow so I'll need lots of help from everyone. I've taken up many interesting hobbies over the years and can become very good at them with the help of others, and some feedback.

1. The look and feel of this product is slick. I like the bold red, the heavy quality steel. The sucker is powerful (don't put them too close to the sprout or you'll kill them). Yes I killed a few of my seeds (started with 14 for a reason). The design is sleek and sexy with hard edges and flawless attention to detail.

2. The SS 400w is silent and the top is cool to the touch (do not touch the glass as it can get hot when on).

3. This is a heavy duty unit I liked the hanging pins provided as they were solid metal.

4. The shipping box was discrete for those looking to not get noticed (I live in Colorado and it's legal). The packing was design well however CLW should take the power cord to the box so it doesn't rattle around during shipping. The already installed lights with boxes covering them was genius.

5. The veg, and bloom switch is awesome, as well as the uvb on off switch. The only thing I would like to see is a power on off (unless I missed that....). This will make it easy for a noob growing like me. :lol:

Now lets talk about my setup. I'm going to be doing some hydro. I like the idea of being able to control exactly what my plant gets. I'll take some pictures once I have everything set up. So far I'm using a 78x78x78 grow tent so I have some room to change out water without making a mess.
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First day setting up.
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:36 pm

Welcome to the forums!


SME

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby gr865 » Fri Sep 20, 2013 2:29 pm

Straph,

Hey bud, welcome to the jungle!

Hey if you are running one light I think you will want to tighten your tent up a bit. 6.5x6.5x6.5 in a little to large for the SS400, you are at just over 42 sqft. The light won't cover that large an area.

I want to wish you good luck with your grow and may it be a successful one for you.

Peace out,

GR
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby Straph » Sat Oct 05, 2013 2:11 pm

mms_picture (1).jpg
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Yeah the tent is large for the 400 watt, however I'm only using one side of the tent for the grow. The other side is for supplies, and work room for swapping the buckets, plus I got the tent for $170 on sale. Couldn't pass that up.

Now for the update. Over the last week I got my mother plant from outdoors to indoors as it's freak'n cold now. I fed her some nuts, and put her under the light and she perked right up.

During the Week I noticed some spots on the leafs and some little pests in the soil. So I got a drench and spray to wage war on the little things. Guess I'm winning at the moment.

I also started some clones 8 in all just to ensure I have 6 left if any have issues. I used rockwool and a dome to start out. I used clonenex, root starter and PH balanced to 5.5. I dropped the rockwool in the solution for 10 seconds then pulled them out. The rockwool was moist and ready to plant. I cut the clone stems at 45 degree angle and put some clonenex on the tips. Then I placed them in the rockwool.

It is now day 6 for the clones and no sign of roots. Since I haven't given them any nuts or changed water or done anything to the rockwool in 6 days I made a solution to place in the bottom. Give the roots something to shoot for. Needless to say the strength is like 80~100 ppm, and PH of 5.2 to offset the rockwool's natural PH. I added in some root starter as well.
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Mon Oct 07, 2013 1:38 pm

I haven't used rockwool in ages but I thought you were supposed to soak them in pH adjusted water for a while before using? Give RapidRooters a try, they don't have the pH issues that RW does so they're easier to work with.

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
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Clone to Veg

Postby Straph » Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:33 am

So after a few weeks one of the clones finally rooted (about 15 roots). So I moved her to the veg state. I'm using a 5 gallon bucket, with Hydrocorn and a air pump. Each clone will have it's own bucket as I didn't want to mess with a water pump. So far this little bugger is getting some green back to it's leafs as the cloning process was a bit more stressful and made the leafs turn yellow.

During the cloning stage I used Rapid Start from GH (General Hydroponics). It's an easy starter solution that has low 1-0.5-1 and won't give you any burn if you follow the directions.

I haven't had any luck with the other 7 rooting so far and almost all the leafs are yellow at this point. They are still stuck in the clone dome.

My mother plant loves the new LED light and pretty much turned super green a week after. She was in bad shape when I got her from a friend. She perked right up and has grown about 3 inches in the 4 weeks I've had her.

I downloaded a neat application called grow buddy that allows me to track all my growing habits. This should help me figure out what I'm doing right or what I'm doing wrong.

I'm running the SS 400 about 18 hours of the day, and the energy bill is about $20 more a month. It keeps the room without any other fans between 71~81 degrees depending on if it is on or off. The humidity is between 33 ~ 64 % also depending on if the light is on or off. There is a slight green affect on your vision after you exit the grow room while working under the LED however it goes away in about 15 seconds or so. It's super quite as I can't even hear the fans going unless I put my ear right up to it. Cool to the touch on top, and I can put my hand about 1 inch away from the led before I feel the heat on the back side of my hand.

Since this is a winter grow the fact that I don't have to worry about my bill spiking even more than normal is awesome. I'm hoping there will be some purple on this one once it get colder.

I used rockwool as it was an easy transfer to the hydro setup I have going. I'm not having a lot of luck with it as I'm new to rockwool myself. I'm sure once I use it for a while I'll get the hang of it. I'm going by the instructions to not soak it overnight as this takes away from oxygen in the rockwool and suffocates the roots once they grow. 10 seconds is all you need in your solution and put the rest in the bottom of the tray. The rockwool will suck up only as much water as it needs so over watering isn't an issue. The PH of rockwool is higher than other mediums for clones so I put the PH at 5.5. Not sure if that is part of my issue or not.
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Yay~
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Wed Oct 23, 2013 12:45 pm

Rockwool WILL hold too much water which locks out oxygen and you should not leave it even in shallow standing water/nutrients. They'll rot.

Why not 24/0 for veg? What kind of light were you using that was $20 less per month? 64% RH peaks is usually OK in veg but I wouldn't want it getting that high once flowers start forming. ;)

I think you may have misunderstood the rockwool prep directions. You *should* pre-soak them overnight in pH adjusted water *BEFORE* you put the plants/seeds/cuttings in them in order to adjust/buffer the pH of the rockwool but once they have plants in them you should NOT soak them for more than a few minutes at a time and then you should let them drain, completely (drawing in more oxygen), before feeding again, ebb&flow style.

Unrooted cuttings in RW need only to be sprayed with water once or twice a day to keep them moist (not wet) until rooted.

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby Straph » Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:08 pm

If you reply to my post please at least read what I took the time to type.

I stated the light I'm using (solar storm 400w) only costs $20 more per month in energy costs.

The directions from the manufacture stated do not soak over night, only soak for 10 minutes with the PH adjusted solution and no nutrients. Then add nutrient water 1 week after about 1 inch at the bottom of the germination station as the roots should at least be established within the rockwool, and that you can't over water it after the first week as the design of rockwool is to only absorb a specific amount of water naturally in this manor.

Grodan originally said to soak for 24 hours, but has recently changed their directions to 10~30 minutes. So it's not the amount of time that is important, it's the pH. Rockwool is spun rock, and some of the rock is limestone. There may be residual lime in the rockwool, and lime, as we all know from our reading, raises pH. So the wetting of the rockwool is done with a low pH soup, to fix the lime.

Education is good.
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby SisterMaryElephant » Wed Oct 23, 2013 7:41 pm

Watch the attitude...

I did read what you wrote but it sounded like you were saying that the SS400w cost $20 *more* than another light that you used before but thinking about it, now, you also said, in another post, that it was your first grow so while it was an easy mistake to make it was still mine. Since the SS400w uses less power in veg mode, I now see that you *meant* that the SS uses $20 worth of electricity to run in veg mode. That's still cheap electricity though. :D

Well, maybe that is new manufacturer info because 10 years ago, when I last used rockwool, this is how many people did clones in RW:
The Fine Art of Cloning, by N.P.Kaye

Old school hydro growers still use small rockwool cubes for cuttings. They're about 1.5 inches square, wrapped in plastic, and have a HOLE for the clone to go in. (Note: Rather than the individually wrapped cubes, Grodan manufactures a sheet of 50 cubes which fit perfectly in a standard tray/propagation dome.) You should remove the plastic wrap.

I usually poke a 1/8 inch diameter pointed stick in the hole to deepen it the original hole to a point 1/4 inch from the bottom of the cube (don't go through the cube). That allows for approximately 1 inch of stem to be in the cube.


Pre-soak the rockwool:

Treat the rockwool by soaking overnite in a 5.2 pH 1/2 strength nutrient solution (If you're using GH nutrients, that would be 2.5ml of each component per gallon of water.)

Then, before squeezing out any excess solution, rehydrate with a 6.5pH solution of the same strength. In other words, mix a gallon of 6.5pH solution, then use some of it to adjust to 5.2pH for the soak. Use up the remaining 6.5 pH solution until the clones root.

I use Hydrofarm liquid cutting concentrate (HF cutting conc.), widely available Rootone F works as well.


Prepare the clone:

When taking a cutting, always plan on having at least one node inside the hole, and 4 to 6 nodes above. My cuttings are about 2.5 to 3.5 inches tall plus approx another 1 inch below the surface. The stem width of my cuttings (at the cut) average 3/32 to 1/8+ inch.

1. Trim off the leaf/shoot that goes in the cube with a razor blade before taking the cutting (see above)

2. Make the diagonal cut on the stem (from the mom) about 1/4 inch below a node. Use a new razor blade with a small piece of wood behind the stem to serve as an anvil for making a clean cut.

3. IMMEDIATELY dip the bottom one inch of the cutting in the rooting liquid for about 15 to 30 seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present.

4. Then gently push it into the hole (I usually use large tweezers to poke into the rockwool about 1/2 inch from each side of the cutting then squeeze the rockwool to hug the stem).

The first night the cuttings will droop, the second day they will start to lift their heads.

I've taken clones rooted in rockwool and transplanted them directly into a pot with soil with no problems at all.. that's the joy of rockwool, virtually no transplant shock from disturbed roots. As long as roots can be seen coming from the rockwool cube it can be transplanted.

How do you recommend supplying nutrients to the rooting stem?
Nutrition is not as much of a concern as moisture is.

Leave the cube in a humidity dome at around 80 to 85 degrees F, with about 30-40 Watts/sq ft of fluorescent lighting on for 24 hours a day.

The cube should NOT sit in water. As long as humidity is high, you can spray with the 6.5 pH solution twice a day for the first 2 days, then once a day until it roots. But the humidity must be high; you should see condensation inside on the tray walls and maybe the leaves. I also spray the walls of the tray to keep it humid. Spray only the leaves not the cubes.

Check for roots around the eighth day by opening a cube in half very carefully. White roots should be exiting the node.

Keep in mind that the longer you have humid conditions the more likely it is to get mold or fungus; rooting quickly is one way to avoid lengthy humid conditions.


Once rooted:

When you first see the cutting is rooting through the cube bottom, you can stop spraying and start watering the cube, let the solution drain from the cube.

This is a critical time:, when you see roots, water the cube and open the tent a little to allow humidity to escape AND CHECK EVERY 20 MINUTES for ANY SIGN of wilting. If after the 1st hour with no wilting open the tent a little more, and check every hour. After 4 to 6 hours with no wilting, you're ready to rock n roll. If any clones START to wilt replace the tent, spray leaves, and try again the next day.

If you have some rooted, some not, go for the humidity for a couple more days.

Using General Hydroponic's 'Flora' nutrients and rockwool, and Hydro Farm cutting concentrate, I root in 8 days with great looking clones. So there IS a difference in nutrients, medium, and rooting compounds. BTW use a fresh mix of nutrients, and keep the bottle sealed. pH can shift radically, but usually wont do so for the first 10 days if the bottle's kept sealed, out of light, and at room temperature. And don't forget HUMIDITY, HUMIDITY, HUMIDITY. But don't overdo it for too long or you risk mold and damping off.

That is from Dec - 2000

Grodan now has a faster draining version of RW but I still wouldn't let it stand in water. YMMV.

I'm looking forward to seeing how they do...

Disclaimer:
I still use HID and I'm NOT an LED expert. All of my LED knowledge is from other parties or research so I can't say from first hand experience one way or another. I also run a medical grow consulting business in SoCal.
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Re: Straph's GFP Journal

Postby Straph » Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:13 pm

I'm a Leo I'm full of attitude lol.

Yeah I love the cheap electric bill on the ss400. I was amazed. I'm used to seeing other peoples grow rooms and their electric bill when it came to HPS. So I'm pretty darn happy with the usage of electricity.

10 years ago? I was just getting out of the military 10 years ago. So much has changed since then. Very interesting though how things change over time.

Now the clone is doing much better. She has new green growth already after I moved her to the hydro stage. The roots are kicking it some nutrients. The PH level is checked twice daily at this point to make sure she can actually eat them.
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