KUNGFUBRU from 420 magazine forums - concatenating for your reading pleasure wrote:
...To be honest I've always been to scared to follow the Canna guidelines, and plumbed for adjusting my feed down between 6.8 to 6.5 but i keep getting the same issues with the plants,, A couple of weeks into the main room around the time of flipping to 12/12 shows the start of multiple nutrient deff's N, Mag, Cal.. Mag seems the most prevalent, and the first to show in veg,,purpling on the branches, and leaf stems, spots on leaves. Pale new growth and yellowing older, although the lower part of the plants do seem to keep there green a little better, finishing with leaf die off in extreme cases.
So been thinking about maybe adding a little extra Dolomite lime to my next soil mix, or maybe even sprinkling some over the tops of the ones on the go right now...
KUNGFUBRU from 420 magazine forums "Soil Conundrum!?" thread - concatenating for your reading pleasure wrote:CANNAS HORTICULTURIST ANSWERS
Nutrient are the best solvable between 5,2 and 6,2. But....
Terra, our potting mix is made of peat which has a pH of 3,5 - 4,0. In that pH your sweet spot will not grow. So we add chalk (lime) to it and make a pH of 6,1 (+/- 0,2)
Giving a lower pH (with the water) will break the chalk down, so don't do it.
A higher pH makes a few nutrient elements less solvable, which means less absorbable for the plant
6,5 is to high.
That means some elements like metals Iron Magnesium Manganese cannot be taken, which are needed to make Chlorophyll, which makes the plant green.
You will see light green leaves especially in the top(Fe), but even yellow spots later on in the middle part (Mg/Mn)
By giving extra N27% often the problem solves, because this nutrient will bring the pH down in the substrate (not in the water)
Some Brands make use of this N27% in their nutrient and do recommend a high pH.
A dangerous recommendation, because later on the plant will take the pH down in the rootzone, when the plant start to flower.
According to us; the mistake was in giving a high or (wrong) pH,
In the first week they get nutrients again of the new soil with a right pH. But you make in impossible again within a week to take it later on by giving a high pH.
If you give feeding (even when it is low) and the plant cannot take it by the high pH, these nutrient will be build up in the substrate.
Again an indication your pH is to high.
early veg pH 5,8
full veg, pH 5,9
early flower pH 6,0,
late flower. pH 6,2 (when PK is given)
So change the pH to 5,8
Give temporarily (2-3 weeks) N27%, to cure the problem
I hope this information makes things clearer for you if you have anymore questions then ping me email and I will get back to you
SisterMaryElephant wrote:A soil/soilless mixture with a lot of peat can affect pH so you may be on to something. I think I'd change my medium next time but it's your grow.
The transplant looks like it went well and it was time. Good job!
The other thing to consider (and it could be related to deficiencies) is that when adding CO2 the plants can use more nutrients so don't starve them either.
ItsCurtisBaby wrote:Hey MC,
If you are going to change mediums, and not to promote any product over another (because I have never used anything else), but....I have had what I consider to be very good results with Fox Farms soilless mixtures...I have blended the Ocean Forest with Happy Frog and never looked back. A quick Google search can show you what ingredients are in their mixtures.. earthworm castings, crab shells, bat guano, etc. .
After some early PH issues, (FFOF can run hot for some strains, which is why I blended it with FFHF) SME suggested I amend the mix with dolemite lime (which you already have done) and I added some more earthworm castings as a top dressing...but again, let me reiterate...I have done absolutely nothing more to this grow mixture in three grows !
All I do now is simply feed and flush!
Good luck my man!
ICB
Soil mix from Subcool, a marijuana breeder - posted from growweedeasy, "How do I grow organic marijuana" wrote:(Recommended) 4 oz Mycorrhizae beneficial bacteria - Roots Oregonism XL or Great White Shark work perfectly - these adds additional bennies (beneficial bacteria) to get your soil composting so it produces the good stuff
- 8 large bags of high quality organic potting soil with coco coir and Mycorrhizae (30 pounds each bag or ~240 pounds total) - Roots Organics Soil or Sunshine Mix is ideal
- 25-50 lbs. of organic worm castings
- 5 lbs. of Blood meal 12-0-0
- 5 lbs. Bat guano 0-5-0
- 5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal 3-18-0
- ¾ cup Epsom salt
- 1 cup Sweet lime (Dolomite)
- ½ cup Azomite (trace element)
- 2 Tbs. powdered Humic acid
- Perlite to your liking - not more then 25%
(Optional) 2 lbs Coco Coir - (use a wheelbarrow to rehydrate this brick - it expands a lot!) only add extra coco coir if you chose an alternative organic potting soil not listed above, and your chosen soil does not already contain coco coir, such as Black Gold organic soil
*** If using an RO (reverse osmosis) system add in 1/2 cup powdered Cal/mag
- Step 1: Mix ingredients
- Step 2: add water to activate microbial process
- Step 3: Allow the mixture to cook covered 30-60 days to activate
- Step 4: Fill bottom of bucket, bag or soil-container 1/2 full with above super-soil, fill the rest with un-amended soil
- Step 5: Maintain with organic compost tea
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